Organic Odyssey
By Tracey Behringer
Special to the Daily Local News (West Chester, PA)
May 6, 1998

The freshest and crispiest veggies come from organic farms

Shareholders of Community Supported Agriculture often talk about the value of local, organically-grown produce and the concept of ecologically responsible farming. But if pressed, they will also tell you that one of the best reasons to participate in a CSA program is fresh, tasty vegetables.

"The carrots are my kids' favorites. They don't even make it home because they are eaten in the car on the way," said Sally McQuail, a Downingtown resident and mother of two youngsters, Monica, age 6 and Kenny, 4.

Penny Halbert of West Chester said her grown son, an environmentalist, encouraged her to join a CSA for many different reasons, including health benefits of fresh, organic vegetables.

"But the number one reason is the flavor of the produce. It is so crisp and delicious. The vegetables taste different than what you would buy in a grocery store and it actually lasts longer too," Halbert explained.

Described as a partnership between a farmer and those who consume the food he or she grows, CSAs offer farm shares to community members for an annual fee. Shareholders then go to the farm on a weekly or sometimes daily basis to help harvest or pick up their produce.

According to Sam Cantrell, who operates Maysie's Farm in Glenmoore, one of approximately four CSA farmers in Chester County and about 600 across the country, CSA farmers benefit by having a secure, contracted market for their produce and by dealing directly with their own customers. Shareholders, he said, benefit by receiving the highest quality food possible.

"The shareholders here are interested in supporting local organic farming, but what really makes this work is that they also like delicious, fresh vegetables," Cantrell said.

Cantrell, whose family has owned Maysie's Farm since the early 1950s, said he was initially drawn to the concept of Community Supported Agriculture as a conservationist.

A field biologist who has worked at Brandywine Valley Association and Springton Manor Farm, as well as having traveled all over the world, Cantrell said he decided to establish an agricultural operation based on sustainability.

For four years he has grown vegetables for a few local restaurants and markets. This is his second year operating the CSA.

"This program is really in its infancy. Right now I have four acres in production and its all done in beds. There are 40 acres of fields here though, and I envision expanding," Cantrell explained. "We don't have anything exotic, but we have a good variety of vegetables."

Among the many crops Cantrell's CSA usually has available are beets, broccoli, cabbage, eggplant, leeks, mesclun, melons, peppers, potatoes and sweet potatoes.

Certain crops, such as peas, beans, cherry tomatoes and wild raspberries, are available on a pick-your-own basis.

"Besides all the vegetables, Sam has fresh herbs. Last year though, he didn't plant garlic. This year I told him that I'd go in to help him if he'd add it," Halbert said with a laugh.

True to her word, Halbert decided to not only "help out" this spring since Sam Cantrell added garlic, but she also decided to become a regular volunteer at the CSA because of the pleasant environment and rewarding experience of working with the soil and watching things grow. She joined forces with a contingent of volunteers, from Sally McQuail's small children who enjoy helping and harvesting on their weekly visits, to volunteers like Andrew Faust, a teacher at a private alternative high school who brings his students to the farm as volunteers.

"I usually bring about six students once a week to help prepare beds, work the compost, transplant vegetables from the greenhouse or harvest crops. It's a good way to help ecologically restore the land," Faust said, explaining that organic farmers such as Cantrell will help build soil which has been stripped of many minerals and trace minerals from years of farming with the use of pesticides.

"There is a good variety of vegetables for cooking, but CSAs are definitely a health-conscious choice too," Faust said.

At Maysie's Farm and other CSAs, the amount of vegetables a family or individual receives is based on the purchase of shares in the operation. Weather conditions play a role in the amount of produce harvested as well. Some years poor weather may lead to small returns but other years there may be bumper crops.

"So far everything has gone very well. Last year I started out completely from scratch, no shareholders. By the end of the first year 51 households were participating. There are 70 shareholders right now and I expect to have 100 by the end of this year," Cantrell said.

With that much growth, Cantrell says he is actively looking for more volunteers or shareholders who would like to work on the farm.

"Of course there is no way one person can do all of this alone. I've been fortunate that so many people enjoy coming out to help, but I'm also hoping to recruit interns and provide educational opportunities in this type of farming. And to support the concept, 'think globally, eat locally," Cantrell said.

For more information about Maysie's Farm CSA, call 610-458-8129.