Book Review By Daniel Barringer Michael Pollan The Botany of Desire: A Plants-Eye View of the World New York: Random House, 2001 If you eat, you should read this book! While most of us think that humans have bred plants to serve ourselves, Michael Pollan argues that domesticated plants historically have used us for their own means: they have evolved a variety of traits we value to get themselves propagated widely. In the age of genetic engineering, this model is changing. Pollan covers four plants and their human histories: apple, tulip, marijuana, and potato. He traces the apple from the mountains of Kazakhstan to the bottom of John Chapman's (Johnny Appleseed's) boat plying the Ohio River. Bred by grafting in Europe for edible fruit, the apple became a parable for colonists' rebirth in America: the apple had to be re-propagated by seed to recapture the genetic variety that would allow it to prosper under the environmental conditions found on this continent. The tulip also would not be found worldwide today if not for the appeal and variability of its flowers. Pollan covers history of tulipomania in Holland in the 1600's and inquires after our perception of beauty and value. The marijuana plant had the genetic capability within it to go in a few short years from a tall, ropy native plant with flowers relatively low in THC — the psychoactive chemical — to a short, floriferous, and potent plant grown indoors hydroponically under intense, nearly constant light. During the 1980's as marijuana use became more taboo in our culture, growers drove the plant indoors where they could better hide it, which in turn enabled it to become a more widespread and successful species. But the chapter on the potato is what may interest readers most. The story of the potato, from inedible tuber to dietary staple to genetically-modified intellectual property challenges what we think plants are, and what we think is food. Although the other plants in this story were manipulated by people, the plants' genes were always a part of what determined what the plant became. Not so any more. Plants are genetically modified with DNA from other species by one of two methods (p. 207): by infection by an agrobacterium which breaks into a cell's nucleus and replaces its DNA with some of its own, or the more dramatic and surprising way: by shooting a .22 shell loaded with a stainless steel projectile coated with a DNA solution, into a leaf or stem of the "target" plant. Pollan illustrates the problem of not labeling GMO's with a simple story, here crudely retold: If he makes a potato salad out of genetically modified potatoes and takes it to a picnic, is he obligated to tell people there that it was made with a GMO? If he does, and other people brought potato salads that were not made with a GMO, won't everyone choose to eat the other people's salads (p. 237)? As with the chemical paradigm of farming, some of the questions we will need to answer about GMO's — about safety, sustainability, and effects on other species — have not been thought of yet (p. 211). In addition to touring farms that use potatoes modified with Bt genes (Bacillus thunbergiensis, the bacterium added to some crops), Pollan also visits farms where the potatoes receive a constant drench of insecticide. He also visits an organic farmer who grows potatoes — among many other crops — and finds that organic farming involves an entirely different "metaphor" (p. 222). Gardens in other ages, Pollan says, celebrated the wild, the intoxicant, the dangerous, and the dead (p. 119). Our gardens and farms today are a sanitized, orderly version of what we think is beautiful and good. The risk of narrowing the variety of what we grow, the pursuit of the one perfect potato, ". . . is to shrink evolution's possibilities, which is to say, the future open to all of us." (p. 244). Nap Time Dan Barringer mulching by the teepee

Dining Out: In Search of Organic... by Carol Revak Several of Maysie's Farm CSA members were chatting last month about how nice it would be to offer our members a listing of local restaurants that serve organic and natural foods. Much as we truly love preparing and consuming the wonderful produce from Maysie's, let's face it — some days we just don't feel like cooking! So, why not offer healthy eating alternatives for dining out? With the increasing public awareness of healthy eating and growing support for fresh, local, organic food, combined with what appears to be quite a 'restaurant boom' in our area, we thought that surely there would be many local restaurants that we could highlight. Most people are aware of the White Dog Café in Philadelphia, which has always been one of my favorite restaurants in the city. A little closer to us is the Crocodile Café in Wayne. And many of our members are already patrons of the Kimberton Whole Foods' Café, which will be opening a second location in Downingtown in the fall. We'll be reviewing these restaurants soon. But, aside from these, the list of places closer to home was pretty sparse. If you are aware of any we can add to our list, please let us know! You may send your comments to Carol Revak, crevak@comcast.net. In the meantime, check out the review in this newsletter on one of the local places we DID find, a new take-out spot in Lionville called Café au Natural. Also — the next time you are at a local restaurant, ask your server whether they make an effort to serve local, organic food and — if not — whether it is something they would consider. Hopefully, if more of their customers request healthier alternatives, they will respond by including more organic food in their selections! Restaurant Review: Café au Natural by Carol Revak This tiny gem, located at 309 Gordon Drive in Lionville, between Pickering Valley Feed & Farm and the Lionville Pharmacy, opened in February 2003. Owner Jennifer Gorman wanted to be able to offer a variety of natural and organic foods, and goes out of her way to prepare healthy alternatives. While technically not a "restaurant" — there is no dining area; food is take-out only — it is definitely worth a visit! The menu features mostly lunch selections, although there are also bagels and croissants available for breakfast. Lunch items include a variety of salads, soups, deli sandwiches and café wraps. On my first visit, I tried the Black Bean Wrap, which was a delightful combination of black beans, cheddar cheese, black olives, and mixed greens on a spinach wrap, served with blue corn chips, salsa and sour cream. The wrap was a good size — large enough that if I wanted to eat half for lunch, I could save the other for later. However, after I started eating it, I enjoyed it so much that I finished the entire plate! On a different visit, I tried the Roast Beef Deli Sandwich, which was served with veggie cream cheese, cucumber and thinly sliced onion on multi-grain bread, plus a cup of their Vegetable Soup, which was nicely flavored (and included organic veggies, of course!). It should be noted that all of their deli meats are all natural, and contain no hormones, no antibiotics and no nitrates. Their eggs, greens, and coffee are organic. For fast pickup, you can call or fax your order in ahead of time. However, I prefer to place my order there, and then, while I wait, go next door to the Lionville Natural Pharmacy to chat with their very knowledgeable staff about the latest in alternative as well as traditional health treatments. You can check out Café au Natural's complete menu on-line at www.cafeaunatural.com. They are only located a few miles from Maysie's — why not stop in on one of your next pickup days and give them a try? Café au Natural 309 Gordon Drive Suite 100 Exton, PA 19341 Phone: 610-363-0448 / Fax: 610-363-0458 Store Hours: Monday-Friday 9am -3pm; Saturday 9am-2pm Kelsey and Richard